The fashion for exotic plants, with non-standard shapes and lines, affects not only landscape design, but also the world of indoor plants. Today, on the shelves of shops you can find a huge number of modern, with bold lines and unusual “prickly” inflorescences of cultures. One of these is exotic turmeric. In a plant with luxurious inflorescences formed by pink, white or purple apical leaves, everything seems original. And at first glance, it’s hard to believe that this is the same plant from which the famous bright yellow spice is extracted. Indoor turmeric is a capricious culture that requires digging for the winter. But she can become a real pride of the collection and a unique interior decoration.
Flowers of turmeric are often foliated. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Pretty Kate Machine
Indoor turmeric is more than just exotic
Indoor turmeric is a relative of the plants from which the legendary substitute for saffron is obtained in India. This is in every sense an exotic plant that is able to compete in catchiness and style even with the recognized favorites of greenhouse floriculture. “Siamese tulip” is imposing, with amazing symmetrical lines, as if it embodied all the beauty of Indian flora.
The secret of turmeric’s success in indoor culture is the perfection of shapes and lines, bright personality and non-standard flowering. But the beauty of turmeric does not preserve the whole year: the aerial parts of this plant completely die off for the winter and it should be stored outside the soil. In this, all types of indoor turmeric are very similar to corms and bulbs.
Among the many types of turmeric in indoor culture, two are the most common – turmeric и cedoaria.
Exotic turmeric zedoaria, among amateur flower growers, also known as the citrine root, is an exotic and very impressive plant. She evokes universal admiration during the flowering period. But in fact, it is not the flowers of the plant that are beautiful, but the apical leaves on the shoots. They form a fake inflorescence, hugging the shoot like petals and creating a funnel-shaped inflorescence at the tops of the shoots, partially resembling lotus flowers. The bracts are arranged spirally, which only adds to the charm of turmeric.
Up to 7 inflorescences bloom on one plant. The shape of the apical leaves is changed, they are beautifully pointed and petal-shaped, and the color is luminous, often almost porcelain and very bright.
Traditionally, turmeric zedoaria is colored acrylic pink, but various colors of the white-pink-violet spectrum can also be found on sale. The only thing that is invariable is the purity of tone. In indoor culture, this turmeric will reach a height of 20-50 cm. Its leaves are lanceolate, spear-shaped, long, grow straight, wider than in other species, beautifully bend at the ends.
Frequent turmeric – the highest of the indoor species among the people was called the Siamese tulip. It develops in the form of a more graceful, slender, unusual bush, whose leaves grow from rhizomes. Straight, lanceolate, they seem to be rather tough, painted in a cold dark green color. Freestanding turmeric reaches a height of 40-80 cm.
Her flowering repeats the features of the zedoaria: at the top of the straight peduncles, the bracts, or apical leaves, which hide inconspicuous white flowers, are located in the next order. These “petals” of pink, white, fuchsia color give turmeric such an exotic beauty. The lines and structure of the inflorescences are surprisingly elegantly echoed with the leaves, the whole plant seems modern and non-standard.
In addition to these two types, homemade turmeric and Sumatran turmeric are also on sale. All representatives of the genus are similar to each other both in terms of growing conditions and externally. The difference is only in the form of bushes and leaves, but it is also insignificant.
The flowering period of turmeric traditionally covers summer, lasts from June to the end of September.
The bulbous-like cycle of turmeric
Turmeric develops cyclically. After the end of flowering, the leaves of the plant wither in September-October. And this is the main signal for the transition of turmeric to a dormant period. At this time, you need to adjust the care, stop feeding and reduce the moisture content of the substrate. After the leaves die off completely, turmeric must be removed and stored outside the soil during the entire “hibernation” stage. Turmeric will not come out of it on its own and there is no need to wait for signs of growth of this plant.
To achieve the beginning of the active phase of the growing season, it is necessary to independently stimulate the development of the kidneys. To do this, in the third decade of February or the first decade of March, the rhizomes need to be planted in a new substrate, transferred to heat and light, and scanty watering should be started. Turmeric wakes up slowly, but then begins to develop very actively. Only then is she transferred to standard care.
Turmeric first develops peduncles and flowers bloom, and then leaves appear. But due to the fact that the inflorescences last for several months, the plant will be attractive until mid-autumn. As a result, turmeric serves as a luxurious accent in the interior during the warm season.
Lighting for turmeric in room culture
Turmeric is a very light plant. But only in one parameter – protection from direct sunlight. A direct, sunny location should not be allowed, but any diffused lighting from light partial shade to a bright location for this exotic beauty is quite suitable. Lighting is easy to pick up: the plant itself signals a lighter color of leaves and bracts, which is better to rearrange the pot to a lighter place. If the turmeric is attractively bright, then it is comfortable.
The dug out rhizomes of the plant are stored in complete darkness in winter: access of light to the roots at the stage of complete dormancy can become destructive.
Temperature range for room turmeric
According to its Indian origin, indoor turmeric inherits a pronounced thermophilicity from the base species. This indoor culture does not like coolness (even short-term). The air temperature in the room where turmeric grows should not fall below 20 degrees. But the plant does not tolerate too much heat, becoming more demanding on air humidity. Try to keep turmeric in stable temperatures of 20 to 22 degrees Celsius or slightly higher.
During the stage of complete dormancy, after removing the rhizome from the soil, turmeric should be kept within a temperature range of 15 to 18 degrees. Specific temperatures at which you need to store the dug out rhizomes, specify when buying: depending on the type, turmeric can be stored both at standard temperatures and in much cooler conditions – from 7 to 9 degrees. Ask what kind of wintering your beauty will need.
In the summer, actively growing and blooming turmeric can be exposed to the open air: it will not be afraid even of a callout in the garden.
Watering turmeric with plenty of water and a smart approach to hydration
High humidity is critical to success in turmeric. The plant needs it only at the stage of active development, while both moisturizers and conventional spraying can be used to maintain high performance. The bracts and flowers of turmeric are not afraid of getting wet, therefore, even at the flowering stage, she will not refuse water procedures. The more often you can spray the plant, the better.
Watering for turmeric is also specific. She is afraid of waterlogging and acidification of the soil. But at the same time, this Indian culture needs a stable, sufficiently high moisture content of the substrate. Between procedures, only the upper centimeters of the soil should completely dry out, but it is better to maintain uniform, constant moisture. From the moment turmeric is planted in the substrate and until preparation for digging, the soil should not be allowed to dry out completely: even a short drought will be fatal for turmeric.
The transitions to the regime of complete rest and the return to the phase of active development should be smooth. Watering is reduced and resumed gradually. The longer you stretch the watering cut, the better the turmeric will prepare for wintering.
This plant needs fertilization for a fairly short period – from April, the beginning of active growth and only until the beginning of flowering. After the first apical leaves on the plant are colored, feeding is completely stopped, because they will prevent the plant from entering the dormant stage with the completion of flowering. For turmeric, fertilizer for flowering houseplants is used, in standard dosages.
After the leaves on the plant completely wither, the aerial parts die off, the turmeric rhizome must be removed from the soil. It is carefully removed from the soil, the substrate is manually removed, trying not to damage even the smallest root processes. After that, the rhizome is allowed to dry out at the usual temperatures for several days and immediately removed for dark and cool storage until spring. You can store the rhizomes in paper bags or wooden boxes, or in dry sand. If you were advised to keep the turmeric after digging in a temperature below 10 degrees Celsius, then it is better to immerse the rhizome in sand.
Many growers who want to make growing easier do not dig the tubers out of the soil. But since in the spring they will still have to be transferred to a new substrate, and the rhizomes in a dry substrate in a pot will still need to be exposed in a cool place, it is better to immediately dig up the tubers.
Planting turmeric in pots
At the end of winter and the very beginning of spring, turmeric needs to be “awakened”. The rhizomes are brought out into the heat and immediately planted in pots with fresh substrate. Immediately after planting, the first watering is carried out, then the minimum soil moisture is maintained, but the plant is still not transferred to abundant moisture. At the first stage, after planting, turmeric is transferred to a comfortable warmth and light. Active care is resumed only after the plant begins to actively grow. Frequent watering should be resumed gradually. Top dressing is introduced a month after planting.
Turmeric pots are selected according to the size of the rhizome: they should be several centimeters larger than the volume of the rhizome, not too spacious.
Substrate: for turmeric, the main soil parameter is looseness, water permeability, light texture. This houseplant prefers soils from equal proportions of humus, leafy, sod and peat soil, with a small admixture of river sand. In terms of acidity, it is better to choose slightly acidic substrates for turmeric. When grown for cut, turmeric is often planted in a more unusual substrate – a mixture of 1 part coarse sand with 2 parts compost.
Turmeric pests, diseases and control measures
- spider mite (increased air humidity);
- Cereals (processing insecticides);
- leaf spot (fungicide treatment).
Turmeric breeding methods
This plant can only be propagated by dividing the rhizome – turmeric does not bear fruit in room culture. Division can be performed on any adult plant before planting in the substrate. The strips should be large, you should not divide the rhizome into more than 3 parts. In this case, at least 1 bud and 2-3 lateral roots should remain in each division. The separation is carried out with a sharp knife, the sections must be processed with crushed coal.
Possible problems caused by improper care
- slow, depressed growth in spring in a poorly lit place;
- lack of flowering when wintering conditions are violated;
- discoloration of leaves or bracts to faded in low light;
- drying of the tips of the leaves with insufficient moisture in the substrate or air.
The use of turmeric in the interior and not only
- in groups with tropical exotics and plants with a similar structure of inflorescences;
- as a soloist, seasonal summer accent;
- as a cut crop (inflorescences after cutting do not lose freshness for more than 3 weeks);
- the dried rhizome is used for grinding as a spice or medicinal raw material.