Growing peppers on the advice of Galina Kizima

Pepper is one of the most healthy vegetables. Galina Kizima made growing peppers easy and enjoyable. Thanks to her technique, you can get a good crop without any problems.

Content
  1. Growing seedlings in the greenhouse
  2. Growing conditions
  3. Soil temperature during planting
  4. Seedling care
  5. Tanks for seedlings
  6. Dive pepper
  7. Planting in a greenhouse or open ground
  8. Watering and fertilizers
  9. Formation of pepper
  10. Typical problems when growing
  11. Conclusion <

Выращивание перцев по советам Галины Кизимы

Growing peppers on the advice of Galina Kizima

Growing peppers seedlings in the greenhouse

As Kizima advises, it is necessary to start growing peppers by selecting varieties based on the region in which the planting will be carried out.

In the northern regions, where there is little sun, early ripening species are planted After 70-80 days, seedlings can be planted in the ground.

Capacities for sowing seedlings should not be higher than 13 cm. This is required by the depth of planting seeds.

Growing conditions

Galina Aleksandrovna has rich experience in vegetable growing and advises when growing peppers to pay attention to several subtleties. These include:

  • sowing time;
  • seed stimulation;
  • sowing depth;
  • planting pattern.

It is recommended to start sowing in the first decade of February for areas with a cold climate, and for the south a month earlier. If the spring is long, then pepper should not be planted in January. Lack of sunlight will affect the duration of the appearance of true leaves. Artificial lighting will not help. This can go on for up to a month. Long standing with cotyledonous leaves has a bad effect on the future harvest.

The next tip from Kizima is about stimulating the seeds. They swell hard and need this procedure. To do this, take a thermos with water heated to 53 ° C and put seeds in it for 20 minutes. Having taken out of the thermos, wrap in a damp cloth and put in the freezer for 2-3 hours. After that, immediately sow.

Soil the pots with soil not completely, but only at 0.5 height, and rammed a little with a spoon or hand. Kizima advises to lay out seeds according to the 22 cm pattern. 5 cm of earth is poured on top. Sowing depth 3-4 cm. Pepper can not be deep planted. There may be rotting of the seeds. It is necessary to maintain the measure and not allow the bushes to grow too close to the top of the pot.

After sowing, all the pots are covered with something that can retain heat (glass, cloth or plastic film). Put in a warm place. Seeds can be germinated in a separate room, and then planted in containers. After germination, the covering material is removed.

Soil temperature during planting

To accelerate seedling emergence, the soil temperature is raised to 28 32 ° С. At 40 ° C and below 20 ° C the seeds do not germinate. They rot in the ground. The lower the temperature of the soil, the longer the seeds sit in the ground. Germination by day depending on temperature:

  • 28 32 ° С – 10 days;
  • 25 27 ° С – 15 days;
  • 20 22 ° From 20 days.

Seedling Care

Рассада нуждается в хорошем освещении

Seedlings need good lighting

After seedlings, it is recommended to immediately place the seedlings under artificial lighting, harden by lowering the temperature to 18 ° C by 4 5 days. Then increase to 22-25 ° C.

Avoid the difference in night and day temperatures. This vegetable crop loves warmth and light. The development of cotyledon leaves lays the program for further growth.

The introduction of nutrients begins immediately after the opening of the cotyledon leaves. Recommended use:

  • a weak solution of liquid fertilizer containing potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus and trace elements;
  • azofosku;
  • mineral fertilizers.

They don’t use organics immediately after germination. Leaf cover will grow faster than necessary. The root system will suffer.

Seedling containers

Galina Alexandrovna advises taking flower pots, the most common plastic ones, with a volume of 1 l. She does not recommend using peat.

They absorb moisture, taking it from the ground. Some people think that planting seedlings with pots in the soil is better than replanting. But the dense walls impede the development of roots and their germination in the ground. The plant is stunted.

Dive pepper

This process must be done with extreme caution. It is important not to disturb the root system.

To avoid this problem will help abundant watering. The soil gets wet to slush. The plant is pulled out of such wet soil without damage.

Holes should be made in the transplant containers. This is for the removal of excess moisture and ventilation of the roots. Drainage must also be done on the sides.

Fill the containers with soil and compact it, water it and make a hole under the seedling. Lower it carefully into the pit, without bending or damaging the spine. Shortening the central root is strictly prohibited. Do not deepen the plant below the previous level of planting. Compress the earth around on all sides and pour a teaspoon of liquid with a nutrient solution

The older the seedlings of pepper, the easier it will tolerate stress during transplantation. You need to do this in the phase of 3-4 real leaves.

After germination, the sprouts do not need to be highlighted, then you need to turn it on until 8 hours.This is due to the fact that pepper does not like long-term lighting.

For convenience, it is necessary to sow 3 seeds in 1 pot, at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other with a triangle. This will make it possible to dispense with early transplantation (picking). With the germination of all seeds, the strongest is selected and left. The rest are cut with scissors. You can’t take them out of the ground, the roots will be damaged.

This vegetable is characterized by a fibrous root system. Small pots interfere with the development of the root system. At least 0.5 liter capacity should be used for planting.

Planting in a greenhouse or open ground

Рассаду нужно присыпать землёй до первого листа

Sprouts need to be sprinkled with soil until the first leaf

The process starts even when freezing. But only in a greenhouse or greenhouse. It is possible to grow pepper next to other vegetables. Tomatoes or cucumbers will help cope with aphids. This is convenient in small garden areas or in home greenhouses.

But it is better to set aside a separate room. Insulate the soil. For biofuels, take hay, uncooked compost or leaves. You can’t take the manure, otherwise the pepper will build up the upper part and will not tie the buds. If the presence of nitrogen in the soil is above normal, the ovary will be reset.

The layout of the planting pattern is made. Digging holes in this pattern. Seedlings are carefully removed from the pot.

We plant so as not to damage the roots.This lump of earth is inserted into the hole, sprinkled with earth to the first leaf. Intensive watering is carried out. Transplanting seedlings made.

Watering and fertilizer

Timely feeding and watering is the key to obtaining a quality crop. Every 14 days after transplanting, watering is carried out, top dressing is done.

  1. It is better to do this with water mixed with fertilizers. The recipe may be this: in 10 liters of water dilute 2 tbsp. l azofoski and 1 tbsp. l chlorine-free potassium. Add here 2 tsp. trace elements. Pour 10 l of this solution on a 5 m bed.
  2. It is necessary to constantly control the moisture in the soil. The mulching process is done along all rows of planting.
  3. At the new location, the seedlings adapt 7-12 days from the moment of transplantation. If there are new leaves with a lighter color, everything is in order, the seedlings have taken root.

During this period, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is done. For this, the composition of the solution is used: 0.5 tbsp. l urea, 1 tbsp. l double granular superphosphate, 1 tbsp. l chlorine-free potash fertilizer. It is bred in 10 liters of water. Consumption will be 150-200 g for each bush.

Formation of pepper

This process depends on the previously selected seeds for sowing. Undersized can not be tied. Tall should be tied up and formed.

  1. Before the fork, the stem is left without leaves. The third stem from the fork is removed.Internal branches with buds do not leave, avoiding thickening and shading. Ugly fruit comes from the inner buds.
  2. You can get seeds for the next plantings. For this, a fetus is left in the fork. His growth will be strong and powerful. An inhibitor, a special substance found there, will not allow another ovary to develop. The fruit will be large with excellent seeds.
  3. If you need a lot of small fruits, then the central one is removed as soon as possible. It is necessary to normalize the yield on your site, depending on the condition of the plants.
  4. When technical ripeness is achieved, varieties of Bulgarian selection are removed. The vegetable is already edible and can ripen to its biological ripeness in a torn state. Dutch hybrids are tasteless in the stage of technical ripeness. It’s better not to remove them before. They ripen poorly. Outwardly, it’s better to pick it off. This is done when the first signs of varietal color appear.

In your own small household plots, as Kizima advises, you need to plant familiar Bulgarian varieties. They are unpretentious and reliable.

Typical problems when growing

When planting and growing, a number of problems can arise:

  • there are no buds for a long time
  • there is no flowering and no ovaries
  • flowers are crumbling
  • the stem is rotting

The reason for the long absence of buds and flowers may be a large amount of nitrogen fertilizers, poor pollination, high humidity or severe cooling. It is necessary to spray with solutions of Bud or Ovary. This must be done before 12 noon. Ventilate in hot weather, and often do not water when cold

Shedding ovaries or flowers indicates that the seedlings are frozen, the area is too dry or there is an excess of nitrogen. This provokes fruit rot. The Uniflor-bud fertilizer (2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water) will help to restore the crop.

Stem rot causes plants to rot. To avoid infection, thin out planted crops, ventilate the room, and prevent low temperatures.

After emergence symptoms should stop watering, increase ventilation, remove all infected s leaves and twigs to the fork. The raid wipe cloth. Damaged place to cover a mixture of chalk and potassium permanganate to the water. Treat the ash.

stolbur disease manifests mosaic coloring and fading. The disease is viral. Get rid of the bush can only be destruction. It is recommended to dig up and burn the bush.

Vertex rot manifests rotting at the top or side of the fruit. This is not a disease. The soil lacks potassium, calcium and water. Need to water and feed. The plant will recover.

Conclusion

You can avoid the difficulties and mistakes in growing pepper if you properly organize this process. Take the advice of Galina Kizima, and the crop will live up to your expectations.

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Anna Evans

Author ✓ Farmer

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