Among the bulbous plants, there are not so many indoor plants that have become real classics. Hippeastrum is one such unique. It is difficult to imagine winter window sills without its huge flowers that challenge the winter cold with colors. Powerful and hardy, it is not a difficult plant to grow. It is easy to learn on it to stimulate flowering and observe the rules of wintering. This is perhaps the most undemanding bulbous for beginners to care for. The safest choice among winter flowering plants and the most spectacular.
Hippeastrum is a classic among indoor bulbous plants. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Laura Blanchard
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Description of the plant
Hyppeastrum (Hippeastrum) has become a real room star with the breeding of more than two thousand hybrid varieties with a large selection of colors and shapes of inflorescences. It has not lost its popularity since the 18th century for one simple reason – because of the ease of cultivation.
Rounded, large, up to 10 cm in diameter, with a shortened neck, the bulb of the hippeastrum seems huge. But in this plant, all the details are catchy and large. At a height of 30 to 70 cm, strikingly powerful peduncles distract all attention, but the leaves are far from miniature. Belt-shaped, grooved on top, up to 70 cm in length, dark and glossy, they only emphasize the power of flowering and remain on the plant until the dry dormant period, and in some varieties even on it. Leaves grow in two rows, with a sequence disturbed from the side of peduncle formation.
The inflorescences of hippeastrum are not single: in adult bulbs, one peduncle grows from the axils of every fourth leaf. A powerful hollow stem up to 70 cm high bears from 1 to 5 flowers, symmetrically located, most often, perpendicular to the stem, as if giving an opportunity to see the beauty of the pharynx.
The flowers are non-aromatic or weakly aromatic, huge, up to 25 cm or more in diameter and up to 15 cm in length, funnel-shaped, with a fused perianth corolla of six petal-leaflets. Stamens with heavy yellow pollen on swinging anthers first bend and then bend upward.
The varieties offer a choice in shape, size, and palette. Small-flowered and large-flowered, simple and double, orchid-shaped, tubular or extravagant varieties should be chosen according to your taste.
Hippeastrum decorate interiors in winter. As a rule, they are driven out for their favorite winter and spring holidays.
The hippeastrum palette seems to have been created to bring expression and tenderness into a winter interior. Red, pink, white, orange, with rare fruity hues, watercolor transitions and complex nuances of subtle strokes and patterns, usually with a dark or intense pharynx, flowers seem to be a real miracle.
Hippeastrum is one of the poisonous indoor plants (due to the poisonous alkaloids).
ะะธะฟะฟะตะฐััััะผ (Hippeastrum). Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Waitrose Garden
Growing conditions for indoor hippeastrum
A dry dormant period of 6 weeks (or more) and the typical bulbous warm growing season in summer make hippeastrum plants predictable. They are thermophilic, adaptable and well controlled.
Lighting and placement
Good lighting is a necessary factor for both normal development and flowering. The choice for hippeastrum is limited to the lightest window sills in the house. After the leaves wilted, the plants are kept in the dark or at least shaded, and if the variety does not shed the leaves, but only stops growth, then continue in good light. With the first signs of growth, the lighting must be made diffusely bright again.
During the growing season, the hippeastrum must be turned in relation to the light source for uniform development.
Temperature control and ventilation
During the rest period, the hippeastrum should be kept cool, at a temperature of 12 to 15 degrees. But if you provide them with dryness and shade, they will be able to prepare for flowering even in moderate room temperatures (17-18 degrees).
After transplantation, hippeastrum is kept in warm rooms, at temperatures above 18 degrees (optimally + 20 … + 24 degrees). In order to prolong flowering and admire the beautiful flowers for the maximum period, after blooming the flowers, if possible, it is better to lower the temperature – to 18 or at least 20 degrees.
During the growing season after flowering, hippeastrum is best kept in medium room temperatures or taken out to the garden. Sudden temperature changes, cold, drafts, heat are the main enemies of the flowering of hippeastrum.
Read also our article Growing Hippeastrum Hydroponics.
Good lighting is a necessary factor for both normal development and flowering. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Laura Blanchard
Home care for hippeastrum
For a period of rest, you need to literally forget about hippeastrum. In the phase of flowering and active growth, watering and feeding are introduced gradually and just as slowly stopped.
Watering and air humidity
Watering is completely stopped for a dormant period, only in warmth, minimally moistening the soil every few weeks to support the roots. Only with the appearance of the first sprout light watering is resumed. Plants are transferred to standard medium watering after the peduncles have risen to a height of 20-30 cm.
Throughout the growing season, it is necessary to maintain light, constant humidity without dampness and complete drying of the substrate. By August-September (or giving the plant at least 6 weeks for the growing season after flowering with a shift in timing), watering is slowly reduced, stopping with wilting of the leaves.
For hippeastrum, soft, slightly lukewarm water is needed. You can not pour water on the plant, watering is carried out along the edge of the pot or from the bottom.
The hippeastrum tolerates dry air well. Leaves should be regularly wiped from dust.
Top dressing and composition of fertilizers
Hippeastrum need additional feeding during the period of active growth, until August. They begin when the peduncle rises to a height of 20 cm, then they are brought in every 2 weeks.
Special fertilizers for bulbous flowers or universal fertilizers for flowering plants with half the concentration are suitable.
For hippeastrum, any substrate from the number of nutrient soil mixtures for bulbous or universal soil mixtures with loosening additives is suitable
Pruning and shaping the hippeastrum
The hippeastrum peduncle is removed at the base after flowering is complete. Leaves should not be touched before wilting, allowing them to dry naturally (with the exception of varieties that retire with leaves).
Transplant, containers and substrate
The hippeastrum is transplanted into the light and warmth for awakening before the callout. If there are no children, the transplant does not have to be carried out annually, simply replacing the topsoil. The timing depends on the desired flowering, which occurs in about 7-8 weeks. Traditionally, disembarkation is carried out in November for the winter holidays.
Hippeastrum need a special pot – tall (two bulb heights), compact (about 2 cm to the walls), with good drainage holes. Small bulbs can be grown in shared containers.
The substrate is suitable for any of the number of nutrient soil mixtures for bulbous or universal soil mixtures with loosening additives. It is better to sterilize the soil or, after planting, after 4-6 days, spill it with a weak solution of fungicides (for example, potassium permanganate).
A high drainage is laid at the bottom. Carefully removing the hippeastrum, trying not to disturb the roots, the bulb is planted so that it remains half above the soil and is located evenly. Only if there are signs of infection is it worth exposing the roots for inspection and processing. Watering after planting is not carried out until signs of growth appear.
Read also our article 5 non-boring alternatives to hippeastrum.
Diseases, pests and growing problems
The lack of flowering in hippeastrum is associated with an incorrect dormancy period, insufficient lighting during the growing season, or too low temperatures. But this bulbous can be lost for other reasons.
Dampness leads to rot. Hippeastrum and thrips, aphids, nematodes and other soil pests, red rot, and rust are often affected. The first signal is a stop to growth. Hippeastrum most often need an emergency transplant with bulbs and regular spraying with insecticides or fungicides.
Hippeastrum babies need to be grown for only 1-2 years. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Joshua Young
Hippeastrum breeding
This bulbous is not so generous (and not in every variety) forms babies at the base of the mother plant. But on the other hand, the plants are strong enough and they need to be grown for only 1-2 years. The bulbs are separated after the formation of their own roots.
The method of dividing the bulbs is more versatile. They are cut in half, with experience – into thinner “slices” with at least a small part of the bottom. After removing the embryonic leaves from the central part, having dried and processed the sections, the fragments are planted for growing in wet sand. After 2-3 months, they begin rooting and vegetation.
An alternative way is partial cutting in November-December:
- the substrate is slightly raked from the bulbs, exposing it almost to the bottom and cut crosswise without affecting the lower part;
- wooden skewers or sticks are inserted crosswise into the cuts;
- the plant is looked after as usual, starting after the first leaves are released.
Next year, in the spring, the bulb is finally divided into 4 independent plants.
From freshly harvested seeds, hippeastrum is rarely grown due to long-term growth. They are sown superficially, in light soil, under glass or film.
In any young hippeastrum, leaves should not be cut off within two years, even for a dormant period.
