How to keep potted chrysanthemums until spring? – Beautiful indoor plants

Autumn is the time for chrysanthemums. Their delicate slightly bitter aroma and bright flowers create a special mood both in the garden and in the house. That is why the parade of chrysanthemums in the fall migrates from flower shops not only to our flower beds, but also to the windowsills of houses and apartments. At the same time, many owners, or rather the owners of donated chrysanthemums in pots, believe that the age of a room chrysanthemum is short-lived, and with the onset of winter and the withering of the flowers, the chrysanthemum in the pot is sent to the trash bin. But this plant can live in indoor conditions for several years! The main thing is to understand in time that with the arrival of cold weather, the chrysanthemum does not disappear, but simply falls asleep. It is important to provide her with the correct wintering conditions. This is what my article today is about.

How to keep potted chrysanthemums until spring? Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Elena Vetrova

Contents:

What chrysanthemums can be grown at home?

Chrysanthemums are unusual plants and their “character” is not always predictable. But they can be successfully grown indoors. For this, most often, the following types of these plants are used:

  • Indian chrysanthemum (Chrysanthรฉmum x indicum);
  • garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum (Centaurea ร— garden);
  • Korean chrysanthemum (Chrysanthรฉmum ั… koreanum ะธะปะธ ะกhrysanthรฉmum multiflora);
  • large-flowered chrysanthemum (Chrysanthรฉmum morifolium).

All these plants have their own characteristics, but, in general, they are similar in care to such an extent that they have one common name – garden chrysanthemums. Although, according to the classification, garden chrysanthemum is the second name of Chinese chrysanthemum.

It is even easier to call the types of chrysanthemums that are suitable for growing on windowsills, in stores – “Chrysanthemum mix”… Sometimes, however, you can hear the name “Dubki”. However, caring for potted chrysanthemums at home is the same, so I think it is unnecessary for ordinary flower growers to delve into the particulars of different types.

Usually, undersized and dwarf varieties are chosen for indoor maintenance.

What to look for when buying a potted chrysanthemum?

When choosing a potted chrysanthemum, you need to give preference to plants with a lignified lower part of the stems. Withered, dull gray or yellowed leaves indicate that the plant is weakened and is unlikely to overwinter even in the most ideal conditions.

Sometimes the leaves look great, and upon closer examination of the underside of the leaf blade, a thin cobweb is clearly visible. She says that a spider mite has settled on the plant.

The main thing is that the fewer open flowers on the chrysanthemum, which is sent to live in indoor conditions, the better. The ideal option is when only fragments of the appearing petals are visible in an almost closed bud.

The autumn coolness is not terrible for potted chrysanthemums, but they suffer greatly from the first frosts. Sometimes you can find frozen plants on sale at a low price. It is interesting that the flowers themselves still look very attractive, but the edges of the leaf blades “sag”, the leaves acquire an uncharacteristic dark color and after a couple of days they will dry out altogether.

Of course, sellers assure that chrysanthemums are only good for cold. But frozen chrysanthemums will not survive the winter in the house, they can only be used as a one-time bouquet.

When choosing a potted chrysanthemum, you need to give preference to plants with a lignified lower part of the stemsWhen choosing a potted chrysanthemum, you need to give preference to plants with a lignified lower part of the stems. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Elena Vetrova

Do I need to repot my potted chrysanthemum after purchase?

Store-bought chrysanthemums always have a good supply of long-lasting fertilizers in a small pot. It will definitely last until the summer. But the pot is small and should be replaced with a slightly larger one with the addition of new soil. I add garden soil with some river sand and wood ash. It is important not to bring the larvae of the beetle with the ground!

You can use ready-made, slightly acidic or neutral peat soil with the addition of perlite, sometimes it is advised to take a slightly alkaline soil – on this issue, experts have no consensus.

When a chrysanthemum is taken out of a purchased pot, it is sometimes found that it is not one plant, but three or four. Such lush “bouquets” will bloom longer in a pot than cut flowers, but like perennials, these chrysanthemums are unlikely to survive if left together. Chrysanthemums do not like thickened plantings even in the garden, not to mention pots. In this case, either the excess plants are cut off, leaving one more powerful chrysanthemum, or they are separated and planted in separate pots.

But if you bought chrysanthemums that are just going to bloom and they do not have a single opened flower, then you should wait with the transplant. At the budding stage, chrysanthemums are very vulnerable. And as soon as the first flowers open, the plants can be safely replanted.

How to care for a chrysanthemum during flowering?

In order for the chrysanthemum to remain in the house for several years, from the moment of purchase it will have to pay a lot of attention, because it is a garden plant, and its life began in a specially equipped greenhouse with a special temperature and light regime on “nutritious soil”.

It should be especially noted that chrysanthemums are grown using synthetic growth regulators (retardants), which slow down the growth of stems in height, accelerate flowering and change the physiology and morphology of the plant. For this reason, you should not brew tea from chrysanthemum petals bought in flower shops and garden centers.

Chrysanthemums, which we grow ourselves from seeds, cuttings, or from young shoots taken when dividing a bush at the very beginning of summer, get used to life in indoor conditions much easier. And, by the way, the aroma of these plants is much brighter than that of the “store” ones.

When a chrysanthemum is taken out of a purchased pot, it is sometimes found that it is not one plant, but three or fourWhen a chrysanthemum is taken out of a purchased pot, sometimes it turns out that it is not one plant, but three or four. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Elena Vetrova

Choosing a place for a potted chrysanthemum in the house

The first thing to do after a blooming chrysanthemum appears in the house in summer or autumn is to choose a well-lit place for it. The best lighting is direct morning or evening sunlight, but bright, diffused light will work as well.

It is better to protect chrysanthemums from direct daytime sunlight, they are shaded or even transferred for a while away from the window. Otherwise, the buds, even those that are not yet ready to bloom, will begin to open under the influence of the hot sun and, without blooming to the end, wither.

Temperature conditions

Blooming chrysanthemums simply need coolness. The most suitable air temperature is +18ะพC, but not higher than +20ะพC. She will also like the frequent airing of the room.

Watering

The soil should not be overdried; chrysanthemums have a branched, superficial root system. It is better to water it in the morning. With insufficient watering, the stalks of chrysanthemums quickly lignify, shrink, and the leaves fade. But at the same time, plants do not tolerate stagnant moisture.

Removal of fading flowers

Fading flowers should be systematically removed without waiting for them to dry. If there are a lot of buds in the bush, it is better to remove the smallest ones so as not to weaken the plant.

Mulching

The soil in the pot is mulched. I use dried and shredded peppermint and wormwood stems. This protects the chrysanthemums from pests.

Feeding

Like all flowering plants in pots, chrysanthemum needs constant feeding (frequency – once a week). Complex universal fertilizers are perfect for this, but you can also use special fertilizers for indoor flowering plants.

For a room chrysanthemum, you need to choose the sunniest windowsill in the house.For a room chrysanthemum, you need to choose the sunniest windowsill in the house.

When to send chrysanthemum to “sleep”?

As soon as the last flowers begin to bloom, the entire bush becomes a little dull, and the leaves look slightly wilted. There are no more buds on the chrysanthemum – it’s time to send the chrysanthemum to rest.

At present, the calendar dates of flowering of most chrysanthemums have been artificially changed. Now at the very beginning of October you can buy blooming large-flowered chrysanthemums in pots, and they are considered late flowering. Their apical buds open in November (and secondary buds, if any, a month later), flowering ends in December or January. But if this chrysanthemum was “forced” to start blooming earlier, then its dormant period may begin in November.

Korean chrysanthemums have a fairly long flowering in the open field, for a period corresponding to the variety. Korean border chrysanthemums (Malchish-Kibalchish variety) begin to bloom very early. Their first flowers open at the end of July. The peak of flowering of medium-sized Korean chrysanthemums (varieties “First Snow”, “Evening Lights”) falls on the end of August. Tall, more powerful Korean chrysanthemums (varieties “Alyonushka”, “Altgold”, “Snow White”) have the latest flowering dates (before frost).

But at home, the timing of flowering of chrysanthemums grown using special technologies, regardless of the variety, is shifted. Provided that the optimal conditions for keeping a potted chrysanthemum at home are organized, its flowering can last up to two months. Most often, the dormant period occurs in November, but sometimes in December.

Wintering indoor potted chrysanthemums

After flowering, it is necessary to cut off the main stems at a height of five centimeters above the ground and completely remove weak and excess branches. The best place for “wintering” will be an insulated balcony or loggia with a temperature of about + 3 ยฐ C … + 5 ยฐ C.

I prefer to leave the chrysanthemum in the light and do not break off the root shoots. I slightly moisten the earth every two to three weeks. You can also leave your chrysanthemum pots in a frost-free basement. In this case, the root shoots are removed. There must be good ventilation in the basement to avoid rot. About once every three weeks, slightly moisten the topsoil.

Before removing the chrysanthemum to the basement or moving it to a cool, bright room, part of the top layer of the earth is removed and a mixture of sand, peat and quite a bit of wood ash is poured into the pot. I always sprinkle powder from dry mint leaves on top of this mixture.

Potted chrysanthemums begin their growing season in March. So, it’s time to transplant it into a slightly larger pot and take out the chrysanthemum in a well-lit, often ventilated and cool (about +15ยฐC) room.

Sometimes, even in a cool, dark, dry basement, root shoots begin to appear in January. These are thin white-pink “sprouts” with small scales, they should not be broken off. The chrysanthemum will need to be taken out of the basement, moistened and placed in a cool (+ 12 … + 15 ยฐ ะก) and bright room. Light, chlorophyll-free “sprouts” will gradually turn into the usual root shoots.

The fewer open flowers on a chrysanthemum, which is sent to live in indoor conditions, the betterThe fewer open flowers on a chrysanthemum, which is sent to live in indoor conditions, the better. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Elena Vetrova

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemums

In nature, chrysanthemums are resistant, unpretentious plants. But at home, they often suffer from dry air or from an excess of moisture in the soil, from insufficient lighting, a large amount of fertilizer and thickening. Against this background, chrysanthemums are very often affected by pests and diseases.

Successful wintering of diseased or pest-affected plants is out of the question. Therefore, you need to know the basic measures for the prevention and control of diseases and pests of chrysanthemums.

As a universal prophylaxis, spraying with an infusion of garlic or a solution prepared from dry mustard or soap is used. Increases the resistance of chrysanthemums by periodically mulching the soil with finely chopped stems and leaves of peppermint or wormwood (just picked or dried).

Gray mold

The causative agent of the disease is the botrytis mushroom (Botrytis cinerea). Lightning-spreading brownish-gray spots form on different parts of the plant. Very quickly, a grayish-white bloom develops in the central part of the spot, which later becomes fluffy.

Control measures:

Spraying the whole plant with a solution of one of the systemic fungicides “Topsin-M”, “Fitolavin” or the biofungicide “Fitosporin”. After a week, it is necessary to re-process.

Muฤnistaรข rosa

The causative agent of the disease is a powdery mildew (Erysiphales). The disease spreads very quickly. A whitish powdery coating initially appears on the top of the leaf blade. It goes with lightning speed to the rest of the plant. The whole plant is in a depressed state, while most of the buds wither.

Control measures:

Spraying the affected areas with fungicides (for example, “Baktofit”, “Bordeaux liquid”, “Bona Forte”). But if you want to do without chemicals, then spray the whole plant with whey or buttermilk diluted in warm water in a ratio of 1:10.

septoriosis

The causative agent of the disease is the Septoria mushroom. First, irregular gray-yellow spots are formed on the leaf blades. Slowly growing and increasing, they acquire a brownish-rusty color. At a later stage, in different parts of these spots, black dots are formed – pycnidia (fruit bodies) of fungi. Dried leaves do not fall off for a long time. The disease develops at a temperature of + 20 … + 25ะพC.

Control measures:

The affected leaves must be removed and burned. The whole plant is treated with Oxyhom fungicide 1-3 times with a break of 15 days. It is not advised to use this remedy in parallel with any other drugs.

Chrysanthemum nematode

Chrysanthemum nematode (Aphelenchoides ritzemabosi) Are small (2 mm) round worms. The disease always starts from the lowest leaves. Nematodes feel good at a temperature of + 13 … + 25ะพC. Light yellow uneven spots are located between the veins on the leaf blade. The leaves turn brown and curl. Chrysanthemum growth slows down. It is necessary to remove the affected leaves in a timely manner, otherwise the whole plant is gradually affected. Frequent mulching and low temperatures avoid nematode infestation of chrysanthemums.

Control measures:

Since the parasites are in the tissues of the leaf, it is ineffective to apply insecticides. To destroy nematodes in plant tissues, there is a practice of immersing chrysanthemums in hot water (+45ะพC) or wet heat treatment for 3-6 minutes at a temperature of +55ะพC.

Chrysanthemums in the garden are rarely affected by diseases and pests, but indoor chrysanthemums are very often, unfortunatelyChrysanthemums in the garden are rarely affected by diseases and pests, but indoor chrysanthemums are very often, unfortunately. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Elena Vetrova

Common spider mite

Pliers (Tetranychidae urticae) multiply quickly and spread with lightning speed, especially at home. Temperature +20ะพ C and air humidity 35% are ideal conditions for their rapid development. It only takes a few days for an adult mite to develop from an egg.

At temperatures below +12ะพSince the ticks are dormant. They feed on the contents of cells. The lower part of the leaf blade is damaged. The mites suck up the sap of the plant. You can see the thinnest cobweb. The leaves are partially discolored, turn yellowish and acquire a “marble tint”. They curl up and fall off quickly enough. As a result, transpiration and photosynthesis are reduced in the plant. In addition, ticks carry viral infections and gray mold spores.

Control measures:

If spraying with onion husk infusion does not help (100 g of husk is infused for 4โ€“5 days in 5 liters of water), garlic (two crushed heads are poured with one liter of water, covered with a lid and left in the dark for five days, diluted with water – 1: 1) and treatment with soap solutions, then they turn to chemicals.

The whole plant is sprayed with the Aktelik insecticide (the plant is treated with this agent in the open air) or with the biological insecticide Fitoferm. (The Aktara systemic insecticide is not intended to kill ticks.)

aphid

Colonies of dark or light green aphids cover all parts of the chrysanthemum. They suck out the juice and weaken the plant. Aphids are often carriers of serious viral diseases. In the wake of aphids, a sooty fungus may appear, which settles on the “sugary” secretions of aphids.

Control measures:

The whole plant is sprayed with the Aktara systemic insecticide. Dissolve granules of this drug in warm water (+25ะพFROM). The protective effect is about three weeks.

Brown scale

Rounded, small (2 mm) insects (Chrysomphalis dictyospermi). They are located on the upper side of the leaf blade, in the leaf axil, less often on the stem. They feed on plant sap, as a result of which yellowish confluent spots form on the leaves. They curl up and dry up, and then the stems get sick.

Control measures:

Spraying the whole plant with insecticides “Fitoferm”, “Aktara”, “Decis”, “Aktellik”.

Dear readers! If you were given a potted chrysanthemum or you yourself bought it in a store, do not rush to throw it away after flowering. Allow yourself to enjoy its awakening in spring and wait for its flowering again in summer or autumn. I hope my advice will help you with this.

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Anna Evans

Author โœ“ Farmer

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