Roses are moody perennials, so not all gardeners manage to grow beautiful and magnificent blooming rosar If you take good care and attention, you can get large buds even in a harsh climatic zone.Let’s see how to cover roses for the winter in Siberia so that they do not freeze and enjoy the beauty for the next year.
- Optimum timing
- Preparing for shelter
- Methods of shelter and rules
- Using hilling
- Other options
- When to take cover
- Conclusion <
In Siberia, roses are covered about 10 days before the upcoming frosts. Usually this time takes place at the end about October.
Bushes should be prepared before late autumn. All procedures begin in the second half of summer.
Preparation for shelter
In August, they stop feeding so that the roses stop growing green mass and go to the dormant stage.
In early September, it is advisable to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium preparations. Alternatively, you can use wood ash.
After that, they begin to cut – remove all leaves, faded buds, broken off, damaged by diseases and pests of the branch. The scheme for each species is different:
- For standard varieties, cardinal pruning is not required, their branches are neatly bent to the ground, sprinkled with garden soil. Only those branches that bend poorly are trimmed.
- For climbing varieties, shrunken and old shoots are cut. Usually stems older than three years old are removed on the ring. Too long branches are subject to pruning, because during the winter they simply break off from the wind. Sick areas damaged by sores and parasites are cut out, then they are burned.
Some gardeners refuse this procedure, because they believe that it will only harm the bushes – through injured places there is a high risk of infection and pests. Others, on the contrary, argue that it is easier to keep roses after the haircut in the winter.
Shelter methods and rules
Such a shelter will protect against severe frosts.
One of the oldest and most popular covering materials is recognized as spruce branch. But it is suitable only for specimens with a height of not more than 0.5 m.
- The aerial part is covered on the eve of frosts, if the rose branches can be covered earlier, they can be locked up in conditions of freezing temperature. Warm in sunny and dry weather.
- First, loosen the soil around the bottom of the plant so as not to damage the root system, to a depth of about 5 cm.
- After that, the bush and the ground under it irrigate with a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid.
- Top with a thick layer of wood ash – 2-3 cm. It will protect against damage by diseases and pests.
- As soon as the night temperature drops below -5 ° C, they begin to hobble the near-trunk zone with peat.
- Young seedlings (up to 3 years old) fall asleep at half the height of the shoots, adults on 1/3.
Before mulching, it is important to make sure that the mulch is dry, otherwise the plant will not receive the necessary amount of oxygen, as a result it will suffocate.
Then we cover the aerial part – it is covered with spruce or pine branches.
The remaining voids cannot be covered with grass, hay or fallen leaves. If moisture gets into the structure from a lack of air, the bush will begin to dry out.
Most gardeners use polyethylene to warm this flowering perennial.
A proven and effective method – bushes they do not freeze, but for this you need to provide good ventilation, otherwise they will be blocked under such material.
To equip the structure, several components are required:
- arcs and or metal rods;
- greenhouse film;
- roofing material.
Thermal insulation technology:
- prepared roses are tied for ease of laying on the ground;
- arches are installed above them;
- in addition, grooves for water are pulled out at the edges so that it does not leak under the film;
- as soon as the first frosts begin, we cover the frame with roofing material, we put polyethylene on top of it.
Under Such insulation will not accumulate moisture inside the structure, so the flowers will not decay and will not block. To ensure access of oxygen, the roofing material needs to be slightly opened.
This method can be used to cover entire rows. Instead of this material bitumen paper, cardboard is suitable. They also throw on arcs, cover with a film on top.
Today they use modern materials – agril, spanbond, lutrasil. The optimal density should be no more than 60 g per 1 m².
In this case, it is important to observe the warming technique – the roses are covered in two layers on the waxed side. This thickness provides full oxygen access. Lutrasil soaked in the rain tends to dry quickly.
The edges of the fabrics are fixed with bricks or something heavy, so that they are not blown away by the wind.
As gardeners note, roses are better experienced under such insulation wintering than solitary specimens – a comfortable temperature regime for bushes is created under a large area due to ground heating.
When to take cover
It is very important to remove the insulation in time. The best time is in the spring, when street heat stabilizes.
Bushes gradually accustom to sunlight, revealing the edges of the covering material. After a few days, one side is fully opened, and after the same amount of time, the other. To avoid burning the aerial parts, you need to do this in cloudy weather.
Spruce branches or pine branches are removed during the snowmelt. If you do this later, moisture will penetrate inside, the shoots will begin to rot. Shrubs in the first 10 days shade at lunchtime, which helps them gradually adapt to sunlight.
After that, they begin seasonal work – sanitary pruning, top dressing, watering to stimulate growth and development.
There are several ways to shelter roses for the winter that you can spend in Siberia, which one to choose depends from available material at hand.
The main thing is to properly prepare the bushes, have time to insulate them before the first cold Dov, and open it after wintering, then your bushes will please you not only with good health, but also with lush, bright, long flowering.