The name amaryllis, which gave the name to the entire family of magnificent bulbous plants, is so often used as a synonym for hippeastrum that they have forgotten about real, genuine amaryllis. This plant is inferior to its much more popular counterpart both in the varietal palette, and in species diversity, and in demand. But everyone who at least once watched the touching flowering of genuine amaryllis forever gave them a piece of his heart. Less capricious, hardy, more flowering, amaryllis deserve a return to the list of fashionable crops.
Amaryllis belladonna, or Amaryllis belladonna
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Authentic amaryllis and their romantic bloom
Real amaryllis, as well as their most popular and effective (and in fact, the only actively used) amaryllis belladonna, have practically disappeared from our interiors. Much more common plants from the amaryllis family, which it is correct to call not amaryllis at all, namely hippeastrum, despite any “habits”, have captured almost the entire niche in the category of indoor bulbous crops and displaced the once popular genuine amaryllis from the list of in-demand plants.
Meanwhile, they have clearly distinguished individual characteristics and differ from the amaryllis quite significantly (and according to quite obvious signs). These are still different crops in terms of flowering, and in terms of its timing, and in nature, and in terms of growing strategy.
True amaryllis, like most spectacular indoor bulbs, came to us from South Africa and are naturally accustomed to subtropical conditions.
Amaryllis belladonna, or Amaryllis is a beauty (Amaryllis belladonna) have much in common with their fellow hippeastrum, but nevertheless, the key characteristics of flowering differ radically. Amaryllises develop from slightly elongated, rounded, fusiform-pear-shaped, with a prominent “neck”, rather large bulbs, the diameter of which can reach 5-6 cm.
Amaryllis have rather large roots that do not die off during the dormant period. They produce leaves reaching a length of 40 to 60 cm with a width of only 2-3 cm, belt-like, linear, with a central “fold”, which the bulb releases only after a luxurious flowering, in the fall (and not simultaneously with the peduncles, like in hippeastrum) … Leaves die off by the end of spring, before the dormancy begins. Each bulb produces up to 16 leaves, located opposite, in fairly strict pairs.
Unlike hippeastrum, amaryllis produce not hollow, but powerful dense peduncles from half a meter to almost 1 m in height. Peduncle development is very fast, it occurs literally in a matter of days. Amaryllis is waking up at an astonishing rate. From the moment the first signs of the beginning of the growth of the peduncle to the beginning of flowering itself, most often a very short period passes (up to 1 week).
The peduncle is crowned not with a few-flowered, but with a multi-flowered umbrella of the inflorescence. It contains up to 12 funnel-shaped flowers with a corolla divided into six petals, the maximum diameter of which is limited to only 6-10 cm. The flowers are smaller and more graceful than those of the hippeastrum, but they bloom in much larger quantities.
The flowering period of amaryllis belladonna is radically different from hippeastrum. If the latter are considered winter flowering plants, usually reaching the peak of decorativeness by the end of February, then amaryllis are crops that anticipate autumn. Amaryllis belladonna blooms traditionally at the end of summer, most often, it pleases with flowers for a long time. Due to the fact that each flower opens for 4-5 days and literally one after another, a kind of wave passes through the inflorescence.
After flowering, amaryllis plants set fruit bolls in which 6 or more seeds are traditionally hidden. They have time to mature in a month.
The color range of amaryllis, in contrast to the hippeastrum, the selection of which has expanded the possible color options to almost limitless, is romantic and rather modest. White and pink variations from the most delicate and watercolor shades to rich candy colors and dark wine-red tones – in amaryllis belladonna you can admire all this richness of color, which is traditionally considered to be purely feminine and very pastoral.
The scent of amaryllis is quite intense, most of all similar to the exquisite version of the scent of hyacinths.
Varietal palette of amaryllis belladonna
Amaryllis varieties are much less impressive than hippeastrum varieties. Almost all varieties have become legendary, and the varieties found on the market can be counted on one hand. The best white-flowered varieties are still considered to be old “Alba” and “Blanda”, pink-flowered – “Maxima” and “Elata”, large-flowered and small-flowered varieties – “Major” and “Minor”, respectively. And purple “Purpurea” can also be considered an exemplary variety.
Home care for amaryllis belladonna
Amaryllis, unlike hippeastrum, can be grown not only as indoor plants, but also as garden plants with carrying in containers for the winter. But nevertheless, the greatest abundance of flowers can be achieved from them precisely in room culture, so this plant will cause the least trouble.
Amaryllis, except for the need to provide them with a cool dormant period, are undemanding crops. Caring for them is no different from most flowering indoor plants and forcing bulbs. Amaryllis do not need an increase in air humidity or any special temperature regime. Both experienced and novice flower growers can grow this plant.
Dormant period for amaryllis belladonna
Blooming amaryllis is well worth the effort it takes to maintain the correct regimen during the resting phase. Fortunately, in this plant, it is relatively short: in order to cause the next flowering, it is enough to give the amaryllis a rest for at least 6 weeks (optimally – 7-8 weeks).
Traditionally, the dormant period of amaryllis occurs in the summer, it begins from the moment the leaves are shed at the end of spring, and ends with the beginning of peduncle formation at the end of summer.
During the resting stage, the plant must be provided with 3 main factors of normal “rest”:
- shading;
- a sharp decrease in watering;
- complete cessation of dressings.
Cool temperatures are sometimes called optional, but without them it will be very difficult to achieve abundant flowering, even with perfect care.
The flowering time of amaryllis can be freely adjusted by shifting the dormant period and shifting it to other periods to distill the plant to specific dates or seasons.
Lighting for Amaryllis Belladonna
Amaryllis makes strict requirements for lighting only during the phase of active development. At the time when the plant releases flower stalks and leaves, and before they wither, the amaryllis must be provided with the brightest lighting possible from all possible options.
Direct sunlight negatively affects flowers only at noon (if the plant gets the evening or morning sun, it will not harm it). In any case, the place for the amaryllis is chosen as light as possible. Shading during this period can lead to a lack of flowering or dropping of buds.
As for the dormant lighting regime, for an amaryllis that sheds leaves, it is one of the key factors in preparing for future flowering and one of the three most important indicators that ensure the correct passage of the resting phase. After the plant sheds its leaves, the amaryllis must be moved to a more shaded place (preferably in full shade or at least in intense partial shade), in sharp contrast to the previous place of keeping.
Comfortable temperature
During the flowering stage, while the amaryllis is actively developing, it is a thermophilic plant, but not too capricious in terms of temperature. Amaryllis will thrive in any living room and will be able to bloom profusely in both more restrained and medium-high temperatures.
But at the dormant stage, for more abundant flowering in the future, it is advisable to keep the bulb in cool temperatures. The optimal temperature range during the resting period is 5 to 12 degrees, but it is better to keep the temperature around 10 degrees for at least 6 weeks.
Watering and air humidity
Despite their belonging to the bulbous and fear of stagnant soil moisture, amaryllis need a fairly high substrate moisture for abundant flowering. For this culture, it is necessary to carry out abundant, but not too frequent watering, allowing only the top layer of the soil to dry out.
Of course, an active soil moistening regime is necessary for this plant exclusively in the stage of active development. With the transition of the plant to the dormant stage, after the leaves die off, watering is gradually reduced and made minimal, maintaining only light soil moisture, taking into account the preservation of the roots (complete drought is contraindicated). In this regard, caring for amaryllis is not much different from caring for hippeastrum.
Amaryllis do not need to increase the humidity of the air even during the period of abundant flowering. Leaves should be regularly wiped from dust.
Feeding for amaryllis belladonna
Finding the right fertilization strategy for Amaryllis is not easy. The thing is that the data on the preferences of this crop for fertilizers differ significantly and often do not coincide. In many ways, what kind of fertilizing amaryllis needs depends on the usual care provided in the flower center or during breeding.
Old varieties of amaryllis are sometimes referred to as rare indoor crops that do not like mineral fertilizing too much and recommend choosing organic fertilizers in liquid form for them. But most modern varieties (and by definition any amaryllis that can be purchased today) prefer just mineral or complex mineral-organic fertilizers.
For this plant, it is better to purchase special fertilizer mixtures for bulbous or amaryllis plants, or use a conventional complex fertilizer for flowering plants. When buying amaryllis, it is better to clarify information about what kind of fertilizer composition a particular crop is accustomed to.
But the fertilization period and the frequency of the procedures are the same for all amaryllis. Top dressing is applied once every 1 weeks and is carried out only during the stage of active development.
Transplant and substrate
This magnificent bulb is traditionally transplanted at rest, after all aerial parts have died out. You can transplant amaryllis at the beginning of this stage and before watering.
For all amaryllis, universal soil mixtures, purchased ready-made substrates with neutral characteristics, or self-compiled soil mixtures from leafy, soddy soil, sand and humus are suitable. Amaryllises can even be planted in ordinary garden or vegetable garden soil, mixing in loosening additives or at least sand, but it is better to pay much more attention to the selection of soil. The soil for growing amaryllis should be not only nutritious, but also water and air permeable.
The optimal transplanting frequency for these plants is once every 1-4 years, but you can transplant plants more often if the children have filled the soil and there is not enough space for the bulbs. In years when the transplant is not carried out, the top layer of the substrate in containers is replaced for amaryllis. In this case, it is necessary to be extremely careful to ensure that the immersion depth of the bulbs remains the same.
When transplanting, at least an average drainage must be laid on the bottom of the container (the minimum height of the drainage layer is about 3 cm). The main thing is to try to cause minimal harm to the rather thick roots of the bulb during the transplant procedure, which do not die off even during a dormant period and are very sensitive to damage. Therefore, amaryllis, if there is no need for separation, it is better not to transplant, but to reload.
If you want to separate the daughter plants, then carefully examine the bulbs, make sure that it is not damaged by rot. The damaged areas are carefully removed with a sharp knife, immediately processing the sections with crushed coal. During planting, the roots must be handled very carefully, but damaged, dry, long or rotted roots are best removed immediately.
When planting, amaryllis bulbs are buried 1/3 or only half. Plants are planted so that a distance of 3-5 cm remains to the walls of the container.The amaryllises can be placed in large containers in groups, leaving a distance of about 10 cm between the bulbs, and 2-3 cm to the walls of the container.But a much simpler way to get a lot peduncles in one container – do not separate families of bulbs during transplantation, do not separate daughter plants as independent ones, but transplant mother bulbs together with educated children – a “family”.
Diseases and pests of amaryllis belladonna
Amaryllis suffer from rot, subject to poor care and improper watering. But much more dangerous for these bulbous pests: spider mites, thrips and aphids. It is necessary to start dealing with them immediately with insecticidal preparations.
Reproduction of amaryllis
Amaryllis make it easy to get new plants and increase the collection due to the formation of daughter bulbs, which during transplantation can be separated from the mother plant and used as independent crops.
For 1 season, each adult bulb, which has reached its optimal size, is capable of producing from 2 to 4 babies. It is not necessary to separate the daughter plants one by one, you can simply divide the families into 2-3 parts. But if you have a desire, you can propagate this plant from seeds, although you will have to wait for flowering long enough, from 4 to 8 years. Seeds are sown with light soil cover, germinated under film or glass.
