Among bromeliads, few plants can match the density and splendor of rosettes with nidularia. Bright, glossy, luxurious leaves of the plant are collected in goblet rosettes. The flowering of nidularium, like the repainting of bracts, does not seem very exotic. The inflorescences lie in the funnel on not very long peduncles and surprise with their complex structure. Despite the variety of species, nidularia are perceived as surprisingly reliable, simple and elegant plant that can set calm accents in the interior.
Nidularium is the brightest among bromeliads. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Melisenda2010
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Dazzling scarlet nidularium with showy leaves
In the Bromeliad family, almost all plants boast brightly colored bracts, the decorativeness of which surpasses the flowers themselves. In nidularium, this quality is especially pronounced: the dazzling scarlet, making the inflorescences look like stars, the bracts of this bromeliad seem especially spectacular. The plant looks still not as exotic as fashionable novelties from among the epiphytes, conquering with harmony and natural elegance.
Nidularia are epiphytes and terrestrial bromeliads that create beautiful thickets, which in nature are most widely represented in the tropical Amazonian forests. Most of the species can be found in Brazil.
The name nidularium was given in honor of the special arrangement of the inflorescences that hide inside the rosette – from the Latin “nest” – “nidus”.
Among the nidularia, there are both epiphytes and terrestrial plants, all of them stemless, characterized by an unusual, compact, bulky rhizome and surprisingly dense goblet rosettes of leaves. On average, about 15 leaves are collected in a rosette of nidularia, although there are plants that produce up to forty of them.
The bright green, with an olive tint, the color of the leaves makes the nidularium very elegant. The leaves are arranged symmetrically, they are linear, lingual or broadly lanceolate, up to 60 cm long with a maximum width of about 4 cm. A pointed edge is more common than a blunt edge, and a finely serrated edge is sometimes combined with teeth and thorns. The leaves of nidularia are very tough.
Some nidularia are characterized by the ability to repaint the inner leaves before flowering. Longitudinal stripes on the leaves are not uncommon.
Without exception, all nidularia produce complex capitate inflorescences. They sit deep in a rosette on peduncles up to 20 cm long, in fact, lie on the leaves. Bracts, tightly attached to the inflorescence, bright, shorter than the main foliage, effectively stand out from the outlet.
The inner bracts of the nidularium are shorter than the outer ones, which enhances the effect of the flower petals. After flowering, the bracts turn green. Up to 6 flowers in each spike are usually inconspicuous, although there are species with more spectacular flowers (up to 7 cm). The heads of the inflorescences are dense, densely spaced, massive, although not the largest.
The nidularium has an amazing flowering time.
These plants can delight with bright heads from spring to December, demonstrating enviable resistance. Flowering periods may vary depending on the conditions of detention.
Unlike many bromeliads, nidularium grows over time and forms a kind of colonies – dense cushions of dozens of plants. He forms children in large numbers.
Nidularium innocentii. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Adam Carvalho
Nidularium purpureum (Nidularium purpureum). Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Arnaud Fafournoux
Nidularium brilliant (Nidularium fulgens). Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com
Vitaly Alyonkin
Types of nidularia for growing in rooms
This amazing plant in nature is represented by more than two dozen species, which are similar in leaves, but differ in the color of the inflorescences. In indoor culture, fewer than ten varieties of this plant are used.
Nidularium Innokenty (Nidularium innocentii) – a beautiful view with variegated leaves. Leaves up to 30 cm long are wide, belt-shaped, with a bright green color and light longitudinal stripes that appear unevenly. The scalloped edge emphasizes the density of the rosette, while the thorns and stiffness of the leaves allow the plant to look even more strict. Young leaves are reddish. The tips of the upper leaves turn red before flowering. Nondescript white flowers in spikelet inflorescences are collected in complex heads hidden under the inflorescences. Innocent’s nidularium blooms from early summer to early winter.
Nidularium purple (Nidularium purple) – very similar to the previous species with narrower linear scaly leaves, retaining decorativeness regardless of the flowering cycle. Leaves blush unevenly, especially a bright red color appears shortly before flowering. The flowers are beautiful, with red sepals and petals, up to 5 cm long, gathered in spikelets in the axils of large, reddish, broadly oval peri-flowering leaves. Purple nidularium can bloom in spring and summer.
Nidularium brilliant (Nidularium flashing) – the brightest nidularium species in color. The tropical and subtropical epiphyte became famous for its luxurious glossy leaves with a muted, olive-green color and unevenly visible light spots, changing at the top of the funnel into scarlet and purple blooms just before flowering. The upper leaves are slightly shortened. This nidularium species blooms from May to December, depending on growing conditions and lighting.
Nidularium bilbergiform (Nidularium billbergioides) Is a Brazilian endemic that grows well in both tropical and subtropical climates. Epiphyte or semi-epiphyte with a beautiful rosette, consisting of 10-16 long, narrow leaves. The length of the leaves is from 30 to 50 cm with a width of only 4 cm, it allows them to look very impressive. The funnel-shaped rosettes appear to be very neat thanks to the symmetrical structure and pointed leaf tips.
The bright green color is combined with a beautiful finely serrated edge, emphasizing the color of the inflorescences, which is somewhat unusual for these plants. Composite heads up to 8 cm long consist of sessile spikelets with half-grown greenish-white or red flowers, completely hidden in the axils of lemon prong leaves. After flowering, the yellow stars of the inflorescences gradually turn green. This nidularium species is capable of blooming in May, July or December, depending on wintering conditions and lighting.
Nidularium high (Nidularium nobles) Is a very beautiful and popular plant. At a height of up to 50-70 cm, it creates a very dense, spectacular outlet funnel, sometimes consisting of more than 40 leaves. In length, the leaves can exceed 60 cm with a width of up to 2,5 cm, they are lingual-linear, with a narrowed base and a blunt or sharp tip, a typical finely serrated edge and thorns. The glossy texture is combined with a beautiful rich green color.
On short peduncles there are multi-flowered spikes with filmy-keeled bracts and large, up to 7 cm sessile flowers with blue-white petals. This nidularium usually blooms earlier than other species – either in April or August. The decorative form Kermezan (kermesianum) differs from the base species in the bright burgundy color of the leaves.
Nidularium Burchella (Nidularium burchellii) Is a medium-sized species up to 30 cm high, inferior to its counterparts in the number of leaves. Lingual, with a sharp top, from 20 cm to half a meter long, they are collected in a funnel-shaped rosette and surprise with a serrated edge with noticeable thorns and a double color – green on the upper side of the leaf plates and dark cherry on the bottom. Rusty short peduncles are almost sessile in a rosette, complex-capitate inflorescences with oval green bracts and inconspicuous flowers. This nidularium species can also bloom either in May or early winter.
Nidularium billbergioides. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Luiz Filipe Varella
Nidularium high (Nidularium procerum). Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Stefan Neuwirth
Nidularium Burchellii (Nidularium burchellii). Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Ruud de Block
Conditions for growing indoor nidularia
Nidularia are considered easy to grow plants. It is quite simple to select the conditions for their cultivation precisely: they do not require either a strong drop in temperature in winter, or bright lighting, they adapt well to different rooms and different places.
Lighting and placement in the interior
The most important advantage of nidularia over competitors has always been considered their undemandingness to light. This plant can grow in different conditions without losing its decorative effect, it is suitable for decorating not only window sills (with the exception of northern windows), but also the space inside the interior.
Nidularia, thanks to their beautiful leaves and severity, look great in flower girls and flower boxes, complex compositions. They can be grown in greenhouses, florariums, bromeliad gardens or flower showcases.
Nidularia grow well in partial shade. They lose their beautiful colors in bright light, they cannot stand the direct sun. And in order for this bromeliad to fully reveal its beauty, it is worth choosing a place for it inside the interior with moderate, dim lighting. In a strong shade, nidularium cannot normally grow, the degree of distance from the window is better to select according to the behavior of the plant, focusing on the growth rate and blanching of the leaves.
Light correction for the winter for this bromeliad is desirable. Lighting should remain unchanged (taking into account the darker days in winter), the bushes are transferred to the windowsills, if possible, allocating space on the southern windows.
Temperature control and ventilation
The growth of nidularia completely stops in winter. And at this time, they need a cool period of rest. It is not necessary to create conditions typical for exotics for this plant: it is enough for it to lower the temperature by just a few degrees, from 18 to 20 degrees Celsius. The minimum allowable temperature for this plant is 16 degrees, colder conditions are acceptable only for a short period.
During the period of active development, nidularia feel good at any room temperature. The minimum indicators are about 20 degrees Celsius, the maximum ones are about 26 degrees. In hot weather, nidularia need very high levels of air humidity.
Despite the unpretentiousness and status of an easy-to-grow plant, nidularia are unpleasantly surprising with their sensitivity to polluted air and drafts. Plants do not just suffer, but get sick from constant contact with tobacco smoke, growing in a kitchen without good ventilation, or when located in places with active movement of air currents.
Nidularium Innokenty variegated form. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Luiz Filipe Varella
Caring for nidularium at home
The most difficult thing in caring for a nidularium is maintaining high levels of air humidity. But since simple measures can be dispensed with, no difficulties should arise in this regard, even for inexperienced flower growers.
Watering and air humidity
Like most bromeliads, nidularia respond very poorly to soil moisture. The plant is watered with restraint, allowing the substrate to dry out between these procedures. It is better to follow the rate of soil drying more closely. Water the plant using the classical method and filling the funnel.
In spring and summer, only the second method is used. The funnel of nidularia leaves is filled to two-thirds of the height, keeping the water level constant. In winter, the plant is transferred to classical watering, the substrate is dried more and more strongly, and the amount of water is limited. At temperatures below 20 degrees, spraying can be carried out instead of watering.
For nidularium, you can use only soft water with a temperature equal to or slightly warmer.
Nidularia need at least average values of air humidity. The plant reacts poorly to the proximity of air conditioners or heating devices, does not like sudden changes in conditions. It is possible, but not necessary, to increase the humidity for nidularia by installing humidifiers. Typically, such measures are taken if the plants are used in compositions or groups with other bromeliads with a tropical character.
If nidularia are grown in splendid isolation, it is enough to carry out regular spraying. Under normal conditions, spraying is carried out only in spring and summer. If the air is very dry in winter and temperatures are 20 degrees or higher, the spraying is returned to the normal care program. For nidularium, spraying up to 3 times a day is preferable.
The leaves of the plant should be regularly cleaned of dust using a damp cloth or sponge and gently wiping the surface, being careful not to touch the jagged edge. On this plant, you should not use products to add extra shine to the leaves.
Top dressing and composition of fertilizers
For nidularia, top dressing is applied only during the period of active growth, from March to September. A standard frequency of 1 every 2-3 weeks is quite suitable for this plant. Top dressing for this plant is applied only with water for irrigation, the preferred method is filling the socket.
For nidularium, you can use a universal complex fertilizer or special preparations for bromeliads. It is better to halve the fertilizer dosage recommended by the manufacturer. The plant is sensitive to excess nitrogen.
For nidularia, top dressing is applied only during the period of active growth. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com V’Deil Es
Transplant and substrate
A transplant for this bromeliad is done when the plant has no place to develop (the soil in the container is completely mastered). Usually nidularia are transplanted with a frequency of 1 every 2-3 years.
For this, plants select nutritious, loose, sufficiently moisture-consuming high-quality soil mixtures. Growing nidularium is possible not only in special soil for bromeliads, even if it remains the preferred option. If the soil is mixed independently, then it is prepared on the basis of sod soil, leafy soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 0,5. Even in the purchased substrate for this plant, charcoal is added.
For nidularia, you need to select medium-sized containers. Too much substrate with a compact root system of the plant almost always leads not only to problems with growth, but also to the spread of rot. Wide, shallow pots are preferred.
When transplanting nidularia, you need to carefully handle the plant and make sure that the root collar is not immersed in the soil. A very high drainage layer is laid at the bottom of the tanks (the optimal height is 1/3 of the tank height).
Diseases, pests and growing problems
The greatest danger to the nidularium is represented by excessive watering and dampness. The plant dies very quickly from rot. If we are talking about a slight violation in the care, you can get by with the complete drying of the substrate. If the situation is critical, the soil is swampy, it smells unpleasant, there are signs of mold development, an emergency transplant with treatment of damage and preventive watering with a solution of fungicides is necessary.
Of the pests on nidularia, there are scale insects, spider mites, and aphids. Insect pests can only be controlled by insecticide treatment in combination with removing insects from the plant.
Common problems in growing nidularia:
- drying of leaves at low air humidity;
- the appearance of whitish spots in direct sunlight;
- drying of the tips of the leaves when watering with hard water and drying out the water in the outlet;
- lack of flowering in dampness;
- rolling leaves in extremely dry air;
- sluggish leaves that have lost turgor during overflow;
- blanching of leaves with waterlogged soil.
Nidularium reproduces easily by simply dividing old plants. Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com V’Deil Es
Reproduction of nidularium
Like all bromeliads, nidularium easily propagates by simply separating old plants that have formed colonies, by separating individual daughter rosettes. The maternal rosette dies off after flowering, but the formed offspring develop very quickly.
You can separate outlets with at least 3-4 leaves and their own root system. After planting, according to the general rules, the daughter rosettes of the nidularium are kept in heat, at a temperature of about 27 degrees, under a hood or glass, gradually accustoming them to the usual conditions of care after the start of growth.
This bromeliad can be grown from seeds if desired, but they are rarely found commercially. Seeds of nidularium are etched in a solution of potassium permanganate. Sowing is carried out in a sandy peat substrate or crushed moss, under glass or film. At a temperature of about 23 degrees, with frequent spraying or airing, the seedlings are grown for 2–3 months and dive into large flat containers.
They are transferred to individual containers only when they get stronger, on average after 6-8 months. The flowering of nidularia should be expected only from the fourth year.
