One of the most unpretentious and decorative indoor plants, spathiphyllum, can be grown even by inexperienced flower growers. It blooms better in shade, loves abundant watering and is able to forgive almost any mistakes. Problems with spathiphyllums are rare, and always – only with serious violations of care. Most often, the plant’s leaves simply dry out and turn yellow. If the conditions are adjusted in time, the bushes recover very quickly and delight with even more beautiful greenery.
Why do the leaves of spathiphyllum dry?
In spathiphyllum, drying is always accompanied by bright yellowing or blackening: if this plant decides to attract attention, then by all means at once. The signs accompanying drying out are usually guided by.
Drying out the tips of the leaves
Drying of the tips of the leaves in an insufficiently humid environment in spathiphyllum, “standard” for any moisture-loving plant, appears as a dry, dark speck at the point itself. Most often, it almost does not affect the main leaf blade, not so much affecting the decorative effect.
So spathiphyllum reacts to extremely dry air (in general, the plant tolerates the usual average conditions of living rooms much better than competitors), but not only. The tips of the leaves of spathiphyllum can also dry out with unstable, constantly changing humidity in the air or soil.
It is difficult to avoid drying out the tips of the leaves without measures for installing any kind of humidifier and creating a stable humidity, it can manifest itself even with frequent spraying.
It is easy to prevent the phenomenon: in rooms with dry air and operating air conditioners or heating systems, it is enough to place bowls and pallets with damp materials nearby. You can group plants with moisture-loving counterparts around humidifiers and shower more frequently.
Other measures are also important:
- hygiene, prevention of dust accumulation on the leaves of spathiphyllum;
- protection of spathiphyllum from direct proximity to heating devices.
“Black” drying of leaves
This is a strong drying out of blackened leaves, starting at the tips and spreading further over time. When the upper part of the leaves is blackened, drying covers a much larger area, most often the leaf plates are gradually deformed, and where healthy tissues are preserved, the leaf turns unevenly.
This type of drying in spathiphyllum causes systemic waterlogging and root decay. Most often, the problem manifests itself in autumn and winter. At the initial stage, it is enough to adjust the watering, dry and loosen the substrate.
If the soil becomes very sour, an unpleasant odor appears and the plant is in a very depressed state, only an emergency transplant with root processing and removal of affected tissues will help to save the spathiphyllum.
“Black” drying may indicate too generous feeding. If there are no signs of waterlogging, the small tips of the leaves turn black, then it is enough to stop feeding or change the concentration of fertilizers.
Read also our material Rules for dressing for indoor plants.
The appearance of uneven dry brown spots on the leaves, asymmetric (mosaic) drying of the edges of the leaves, lethargy, especially in large-leaved tall varieties, can also be solved by correcting the care.
Sunburn is a typical reaction of spathiphyllum to too bright lighting with sunlight on sensitive leaves. It appears in large, dry, unevenly scattered spots. There is only one way to deal with the problem – by moving to a new place with diffused lighting or installing a screen.
Read also our material Pests on spathiphyllums – how to identify and fight?
Drying yellowed leaves
Drying of the leaves, which begins after or simultaneously with their yellowing, indicates insufficient watering and frequent strong overdrying of the substrate. Spathiphyllum does not react very well to droughts: if the substrate dries out completely, the leaves wither, lose turgor, but only the tips dry out and the plant recovers.
If the leaves turn yellow, this is a sign of systemic disorders. In an effort to restore the plant, you should not resort to too abundant watering. The best strategy is to water more frequently and gradually restore normal average humidity.
Spathiphyllums, by drying out old leaves, also respond to the lack of space for root development. If the capacity is too small, the roots have completely filled with an earthen ball, especially when a large number of daughter outlets are formed, the spathiphyllum begins to age faster, the oldest lower leaves rapidly turn yellow and dry out.
To stop this process, it is enough to carry out a transplant according to all the rules, for large groups – with a division. It should be borne in mind that such dropping of old leaves can also be a sign of preparation for flowering or “saving” resources if flowering is too long.
This can be a natural process, so you should always check the degree of filling the pot with roots and only then proceed with the transplant.
Drying of unblown young leaves
Drying of young leaves of spathiphyllum, often even before they unwind, complemented by rapid drying and blackening of the tips of old leaves, can occur on recently transplanted, acquired, rearranged and weakened plants and with:
- too abundant watering, in which the substrate is constantly damp;
- frequent droughts, complete drying out of the substrate;
- critically dry air in combination with any irrigation disturbance;
- lack of dressing;
- lack of a specific macronutrient – phosphorus or nitrogen – due to improper selection of the composition of fertilizers.
What does spathiphyllum want?
Spathiphyllum “earned” the fame of an easy-to-grow plant. In order to avoid problems, it is enough to take care of a few points in the cultivation:
- choose a bright or semi-shaded place with diffused lighting, many spathiphyllums grow well even in the shade;
- monitor the temperature, the values of which, even in winter, should not fall below 16 degrees;
- protect the spathiphyllum from drafts, the proximity of heating devices and hypothermia of the pot;
- maintain a stable light moisture content of the substrate with restrained, abundant watering, do not allow water to stagnate in the pallets and always allow the soil to dry out in the upper layer;
- provide at least average air humidity;
- regularly shower and clean the leaves from dust;
- turn the plant in relation to the light source;
- apply top dressing from March to October with special fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants every 2 weeks, but reducing the standard dosage. If spathiphyllums continue to bloom and grow in winter, it is worth reducing feeding, but not stopping them;
- transplant only as needed, in a high-quality loose substrate.
Read more about caring for a plant in the material Spathiphyllum, or “Women’s happiness”.
In order to never face the problem of drying the leaves of spathiphyllums, you just need to remember the golden rule of growing them – the more stable the environment, the more decorative the plant.