Pleasing with its flowering not only all summer, but also up to 9 months in a row, charming oxalis is one of the most quivering, unusual and at the same time easy to grow plants. It is considered by many to be almost “unkillable”. But if you take a closer look, you can see how sensitively the plant reacts to the slightest changes in conditions and care. Sometimes unexpected difficulties arise with her. Oysters can, due to serious blunders or for almost imperceptible reasons, do not release graceful flowers for many months, or “freeze” with a couple of folding leaves resembling butterflies. Why triangular oxalis does not bloom, we will understand in the article.
Why doesn’t triangular oxalis bloom? Farmer Burea-Uinsurance.com Alan Hitchcock
How much triangular oxalis can bloom?
Triangular oxalis, or Madame Butterfly (oxalis triangular) Is one of the favorite types of indoor oxalis, captivating with the beauty of cold purple leaves. Bushes are large and spreading due to long petioles. Depending on the variety, white, pink or lilac, up to 2 cm in diameter, tubular flowers bloom against the background of graceful trifoliate leaves. Thin pedicels allow them to gracefully penetrate between leaves and respond to air movement. This species reacts quickly to irritations and changes in lighting by closing flowers and folding leaves.
If all goes according to plan, triangular oxalis begins its surprisingly long flowering about a month after transplanting. And not always in sync with rapid growth. Gaining strength, flowering can last for about 8-9 months, stopping only for the winter due to a decrease in daylight hours.
For spectacular flowering and rapid growth, creating colorful and large pillows, an acid triangular does not even always need a cool wintering. If you follow the basic requirements for lighting and care, acidic drinks will really delight you for an amazingly long time. But not always. Even following all the recommendations, you can get an unexpectedly stunted plant instead of a lush beauty. And problems arise unpredictably, most often it is not easy to see the cause.
Captivated by the tremulous beauty of the acid, responsive to the slightest movements, you should be prepared for the fact that the sensitivity of the plant extends to everything – including small, seemingly not strong errors in the selection of a place, watering or feeding.
This is one of the plants, the behavior of which can be difficult to predict and understand. All kislitsy are beauties with a proud character, loving peace, growing as if by themselves, perfectly adapting and not welcoming excessive care. Regular care without extremes, and sometimes on the verge of negligence in everything except watering, suits triangular acid more obsessive attention.
Let’s try to figure out what causes and mistakes can cause problems with triangular acid flowering and how to avoid them.
First, it is worth excluding plant health problems. Infection with pests – spider mites, scale insects – is a great rarity, threatening only if the oxalis stands next to the affected plant. And here insecticides will help. But improper watering, poor lighting, heat lead to a lack of flowering much more often.
Ignoring the light dependence of acid
Most often, triangular oxalis does not bloom due to the fact that she does not like lighting. It is easy to carry out experiments, rearrangement, finding the optimal place with it: leaves and growth rates quickly signal whether the plant is comfortable or not.
The direct sun at noon leaves ugly burns on the leaves of the plant. But while the rest of the oxalis remain true sun worshipers, the triangular oxalis grows well in partial shade, although its colors may fade a little from this. You should not make the shading strong: if the oxalis does not bloom, you should suspect it is insufficient lighting.
Eastern window sills are the best guide in choosing a place. On the western ones, the plant is partially shaded after lunch, on the southern ones, it is placed a little further in the interior or with a constant scattering screen. But in the north, the plant may suffer from a lack of light.
Read also our article Kislitsa, or Oxalis – sensitive “butterflies” on the windowsill.
Triangular oxalis is only well tolerated in the summer heat in the open air. In room culture, it is better to limit the maximum temperature values to 25 degrees. If you keep the plant on a hot window or balcony, it can both start to grow violently, followed by rapid flowering and drying, and almost not grow, releasing several nondescript leaves.
Watering, and care in general, can compensate for hot conditions, but it is better to try to place the pots so that the soil in the containers does not overheat:
- put it lower, letting the leaves bathe in the light, and leaving the pot protected;
- moving plants to the background or lower only during the sundial;
- wrapping the container with additional protection (for example, a light-colored cloth) or placing it in an external decorative vessel.
Oxalis triangular and an increase in air humidity will help to cope with the heat – a simple spraying, which can be done as often as possible. It is enough to make sure that the nozzle on the spray is “foggy” and does not leave large drops on the plant.
A cool wintering, with a temperature of at least 12 degrees, is a desirable, but not mandatory measure for triangular acid. This species will bloom during the winter at temperatures above 18 degrees. Although the coolness stimulates even more rapid growth and a greater number of flowers, in order to cause a complete absence of flowering, winter heat must also be “combined” with mistakes in care.
Triangular acid loves abundant watering, but is afraid of dampness. Overflows are one of the main causes of all problems. The nodules do not rot so easily, but the growth stops quickly. But watering sour cherry as poorly as bulbous will be a big mistake. Even short-term droughts will affect flowering and growth, and if the substrate dries out for a long time, you should not expect special gratitude from the plant. Except for the dormant period: in winter, the roots will not die even after several weeks of “dry” mode.
To remove the factor of improper watering that inhibits flowering, it is necessary to let dry 4-5 cm of soil at the top from March to the end of autumn, and gradually reduce watering by December. In winter, the substrate is dried more strongly, up to half of the pot is warm and almost completely in the cold.
You should not ignore the possibility of using high air humidity for more rapid growth of greenery, intensification of colors and heat compensation. Spraying or moisturizing can stimulate both growth and flowering.
Too much fertilizer or insufficient feeding can also lead to a lack of flowering. Oysters begin to feed not earlier than a month after the start of rapid growth or transplantation, every 14-20 days, until the end of August. For triangular acid, it is worth choosing universal fertilizers. And use half the concentration.
The lack of cleaning, removal of faded flowers does not stop flowering, but only explains the sloppy appearance.
Read also our article Rules for wintering oxalis at home.
Deep pot and traumatic transplant
Fast-growing acid lilies are most often transplanted annually. It is better to handle the tubers carefully and try not to divide the plants into very small groups (less than 10 plants), otherwise you should not hope for an early flowering. When transplanting, the plants are cleaned of dry stalks and peduncles.
The transplant is carried out at the beginning of growth or displaced, achieving other flowering periods (the first flowers appear in 4-6 weeks). And make sure that the drainage layer is not less than 3-4 cm, and the nodules are covered with approximately 1 cm of soil. Deeper planting, like shallow planting, results in lack of flowering and growth problems.
Kislitsy will not bloom, but first of all, it will develop normally in heavy soil. Even a high-quality universal substrate needs to be improved with additional portions of sand, perlite or other leavening agents. A ready-made substrate for bulbous plants is perfect for them.
One of the main reasons for the “suffering” of the acid is too deep containers, in which water stagnates in the lower part. This plant grows in breadth, requires free space and develops normally and blooms only in pots with a diameter greater than height. And necessarily – with large drainage holes. Triangular oxide loves ceramics, which are much better at protecting against overheating.
One of the reasons why oxalis may not release leaves for a long time and not bloom is improper care after transplantation. A cooler place and more accurate watering is the best guarantee for quick adaptation. Top dressing, heat, overflow are contraindicated.
If the usual measures do not work, acid can be added stress. Sudden movement into coolness or shade, strong drying of the soil, a period of dormancy outside the ground, stopping top dressing are radical measures that usually force the acid plant, which almost does not release leaves, start to grow vigorously and soon bloom after the resumption of normal care. Some flower growers even try to drop acid colors …
But if the leaves grow normally, but the oxalis does not bloom, just light stress will do – shading for several days with exposure to the brightest possible light, or lowering the temperature.