Do-it-yourself rabbit making at home

Breeding rabbits can be a profitable business, as well as a way to get tasty and healthy meat. But for successful breeding of these animals you must first start building rabbitry.

  1. Basic requirements for a domestic rabbit
  2. Seating animals on a rabbit
  3. Classic layout rabbit
  4. Differences on rabbitry street
  5. Installation of floor and side walls
  6. Making the front wall of rabbit
  7. Single rabbits for adult animals
  8. Construction of multi-tier rabbits
  9. Sheds for rabbits
  10. Mother-trainer for rabbits and rabbits
  11. Guidelines for the design of rabbits
  12. Rat ventilation and control
  13. Conclusion <

DIY rabbit making

DIY rabbit makes

It can also be assembled from improvised materials, but at the same time it must meet a number of requirements. If desired, of course, it is quite realistic to buy a ready-made dwelling for the eared inhabitants. But it’s much cheaper, and sometimes more convenient, to assemble the rabbitry with your own hands, although you need to approach this issue wisely and with a certain ingenuity.

Basic requirements for homemade rabbitry

There is a number of requirements that any rabbitry must meet, regardless of the dimensions of the structure and materials.However, some requirements may vary, depending on the breed and region. But the materials used, individual segments of the structure and overall dimensions remain the same in most cases. It should be understood that the construction of rabbitry does not apply to those things in which negligence is permissible, because otherwise the animals will not live in it for a long time.

Another thing that you should think about in advance is material and financial opportunities assembly farmer. Part of the material at hand is quite possible to find in the country. For example, many garden owners have old furniture and various boards, and they can be used. The next step is to calculate how much material is needed to make the rabbitry only do-it-yourself.

And here are some recommendations that have I was on the process of preparation for the construction and assembly:

  • First you need to select the appropriate design. For example, some breeds of rabbits do not tolerate rooms with trellised floors. By the way, it is better for novice rabbit breeders not to get such animals. Unpretentious and environmentally stable animals are suitable for such farmers.
  • After that, it is worth deciding how many rabbits will be kept on the farm. And this is not an idle question.With a large population, you will have to resort to the manufacture of industrial rabbitry, and such premises require a large amount of materials and financial investments.
  • Now we need to decide what size the rabbit’s dwelling will be, and this already depends on the breed chosen. Large animals (gray giant, Soviet chinchilla) should live in large rooms. For them, the dimensions of homemade rabbitry are set as follows: 1.5 m in length, 0.8-1 m in width, and 0.7 m in height. For medium animals, these dimensions are reduced by 20%. For small breeds, sizes can be safely reduced by 30-35%.
  • After this, it is necessary to finally solve the issue with materials. And there are not as many options as some farmers would like. The room itself should always be made of wood. Plastic or metal rabbitry will be inconvenient for use, and animals will feel uncomfortable in it. But the room itself, in which the house for the rabbits is located, can be built from almost any material.
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There is one more point that should not be forgotten. In each rabbit’s dwelling there should be a drinking bowl and a feeding trough made in accordance with all requirements. There is a direct correlation between the number of rabbits and the size of the feeders. At the same time, it is also necessary to ensure that the feed does not begin to rot, and the water does not stagnate and does not bloom in drinking bowls. Well, the house itself must be constantly cleaned, because rabbits are very sensitive to sanitary conditions.And if rabbitry is dirty, then the animals begin to hurt and die.

Seating animals in rabbits

The dimensions of the room should be determined in advance to decide how many animals can be put in one cage . Rabbitries of the already described size (1-1.5 m long and 0.7-1 m wide) are intended for sexually mature pairs of animals. One male and one female will feel comfortable in such a room. It doesn’t matter which drawings are used: two sexually mature males are never planted in one rabbitry. But adult females are more patient in the neighborhood of animals of the same sex, they can be planted in 2-3 pieces.

In premises of the same size you can also place young rabbits at the age of 1-1.5 months, in this period they are excommunicated from the mother. And here it must be borne in mind that in a room whose dimensions are 1 by 1.5 m, up to 12 slaughter rabbits will fit. And if you plant kids intended for breeding, then they will fit no more than 8-9 pieces. Of course, if smaller rabbitry is used, then less animals will fit in it. When the rabbits begin to grow, they will have to be seated in separate cages.

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Classic rabbitry layout

There are various designs and drawings of dwellings for domestic rabbits, but it is better for a novice rabbit breeder to start with the classic options. Its dimensions have already been described, and it is from them that one should proceed.Often a drawing of such rabbitry is intended for two adult animals or a small group of young animals. Rabbit is made of wood, since it is this material that is best suited to make it home for domestic rabbits.

The construction of any rabbitry begins with the assembly of its skeleton, which is best made from strong boards or boards. They must be thick and dense enough to support the weight of the entire structure. For erection, they always choose material without cracks, rot or any other flaws – a room with a fragile frame will not last long. Rabbitry is never installed directly on the ground or on the floor – it must be placed on racks. And it’s right to make these racks part of the frame, the vertical supports of the dwelling.

Classic rabbitry

Classic rabbitry

If a simple scheme is used, then 4 vertical posts are installed, to which 4 more horizontal bars are attached above and below. These bars should be located on the same level. They will serve as the basis for the floor and roof. If the plan provides for a slatted floor, then 4 more beams are installed, 4-5 cm lower than those on which the floor will be fixed. A similar scheme is used to install a rabbit dung pan. This scheme is also used in the construction of more complex rooms.

Differences in the street rabbitry

If it was decided to make the street rabbitry, then several other drawings are prepared for it, and the layout changes in places. Firstly, it is necessary to separately deal with the roof, which must be done under a slight slope. To do this, the vertical struts in the front of the cell are made 15-20 cm higher. This is necessary so that water and snow do not linger on the roof of the room. And the roof must be covered with roofing material, slate or tile to prevent moisture from getting inside the cage.

For the cage that will be outdoors, you need to make an additional visor under the roof so that rain and snow do not get inside. And the walls of the room will definitely have to be insulated. All these actions must be planned at the stage when the drawings are being prepared. Of course, during the construction you need to make sure that there are no gaps in the walls. Drafts are very harmful for adult animals, and for offspring a cold is mortally dangerous, so the walls of rabbitry outside are usually sheathed with plywood for additional insulation.

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Installation of the floor and side walls

After the frame has been assembled, it is the turn of installing the walls, roof and floor. Walls are best made from tightly fitted boards or solid plywood. If you collect rabbitry with your own hands, then you can take old furniture panels, provided that they do not have additional cracks.But here it must be borne in mind that fiberboard and particleboard willingly absorb moisture and are not too well suited for street buildings. If a winter house for rabbits is made, then its walls should be additionally insulated to protect animals from winter cold.

To prevent rabbits from freezing in winter, it is best to make the wall two-layer. One layer is fixed on the outside of the frame, and the second is installed from the inside. Between them, sawdust is poured, which will become a very good insulation. The whole process can be viewed on the video, which commented on all the main points. The roof so that the rabbits do not freeze in winter is also worth additional insulation. Usually it is covered with roofing material, and slate or tile is already laid on top.

After this, the floors are installed. For some breeds of rabbits, the floors should be solid, but here it must be borne in mind that they are more difficult to clean, therefore it is recommended to install a trellised floor. It is made of smooth and durable rails located at regular intervals, and a pallet is placed under the bottom, on which droppings are strewed. Periodically, the pallet will have to be emptied, but this is a simple procedure. With such a device of homemade rabbitry, it becomes easier to monitor cleanliness. gate valve. First, you need to mark the place for installing the door and mesh.The door is solid and assembled from wood or plywood. If you plan to use rabbitry in the winter, then the door should either be insulated, or made of thick and dense wood. It is also worth making sure that it closes tightly so that there are no gaps. The latch and hinges can be made independently, but it’s easier to buy, because they are inexpensive.

For the mesh, you first need to make a frame to which it will be attached. You can make the frame two-layer so that the grid is located between the layers of wood according to the principle of a sandwich. And so that the rabbits do not freeze in winter, you can also install removable plexiglass as an additional protection against the cold. But in this case, additional ventilation must be considered in the room so that the animals do not suffocate from unpleasant odors. You can make sure that plexiglass does not completely cover the window for rabbits.

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In order to close the front of the rabbitry, a fine-mesh mesh is always taken, which, moreover, will not be very susceptible to corrosion. It is also worth discussing those cases in which plexiglass is installed on the house, in addition to the grid. The fact is that in snowy and windy winters, snow can blow into the room, and the net is not an obstacle for him, so it’s better to build a homemade rabbitry taking into account such conditions, if, of course, such weather occurs in the area. In the case of a warm winter, plexiglass is not required.

Single rabbitry for adult animals

Sometimes a farmer needs to make a single rabbitry in which an adult animal will live. In most cases, adult mature males are seated in single houses. And this is a necessary option, since the males constantly fight with each other, spoil the skin and spend extra strength. But to make a single rabbitry is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. It is quite possible to remake the house of the classic layout in single housing. Alteration is best done at the assembly stage.

First, from the boards you need to assemble a wall that will be located in the center of the room and divide it into 2 equal parts. After that, you need to prepare 2 separate doors at opposite ends of the front of the house. Sometimes it is necessary to make a single-type house from a finished housing of a classic layout. How to build rabbitry on one in this case? You just need to remove the roof and install a partition in the middle, and then put the second door – and the house for one male is ready.

Construction of multi-tier rabbitry

It is quite possible to make a multi-tier rabbitry, although It is somewhat more difficult to assemble it with your own hands than the classic version. Bunk structures are most commonly used, although some farmers make rooms on three or even four floors.At the same time, it is necessary to take into account building norms and understand that such a design is not as stable as an option from one floor. Most rabbit breeders prefer to use two-tier options, as they save space and have sufficient overall stability.

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How this construction looks like in a section can be seen in the corresponding photo. Here you can see that the lower rabbitry makes an inclined roof. This is necessary so that the vital products of the inhabitants of the upper floor do not fall on the head of the inhabitants of the lower tier. Typically, the roof is slanted on each of the tiers, and at the lower tiers it is made of roofing sheet or other similar material. If rabbits are installed on the street, they are insulated in the same way as the classic version.

Construction of multi-tier rabbitry

Construction of multi-tier rabbitry

As in the case of the classic layout, when tiered, the lower floor should be located at a height of 0.8-1 m from the ground, otherwise the animals will be threatened various colds and other diseases. Sometimes the distance is made smaller, but it should never be less than 30-40 cm, even when kept indoors. Cages can stand directly on the floor only if the floor and walls of the shed are well insulated. But keep in mind that rats are easier to get into such dwellings.

Sheds for rabbits

The most famous version of the multi-tier rabbitry, which is used in industrial cultivation, is the Sheds. Sheds are a series of small cells located in 2-4 tiers, which are sometimes installed opposite the exact same row. In the cells, all the walls can be made of mesh, and only the frame is wooden. The roof is still solid, since the floor in the sheds is usually made of mesh or battens. Additional ventilation for such a system is not required, since the mesh cells are well ventilated.

But one must take into account the fact that this system is not suitable for outdoor maintenance in the winter. It is usually located in a barn or other similar room, which closes during the cold weather. Examples of such a layout can be seen in the photo and video. But rooms made of metal are not suitable here, in particular, old garages. They do not retain heat, and the Sheds will need additional heating. Sheds are usually made for 1-2 animals and are great for industrial rabbit rearing.

Mother rabbit for rabbits and rabbits

First you need to understand what mother liquor and why it is needed. The mother-child is a small box in which the rabbit gives birth and takes care of the little rabbits.It imitates the natural conditions for raising offspring that exist in the wild, because wild rabbits are burrowing animals by nature, and therefore the female needs a dark and closed place in which she can breed her offspring. This is precisely the place where the mother queen is for the domestic rabbit.

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Some people think that the mother queen is not necessary, since it is enough to build a rabbit house with your own hands, and there will already be animals where to grow young animals. Such farmers put the mother liquor except in winter, when the kids need additional heating. But because of the instincts of the female, such a dwelling must be installed when breeding rabbits. It is also worth remembering that, although these animals quickly breed, their offspring die at no less speed, therefore the necessary conditions must be provided.

Rabbit uterine

The motherboard for rabbits

The price of the motherboard, if you take the purchased materials, is very low. And no videos that explain the principles of its assembly are required here. The mother-child is an ordinary box in which the female with her offspring will live. It is usually assembled from plywood or fiberboard, making in the front part a passage for the female. At the same time, the surface of the wood must be carefully sanded so that no splinter remains, and inside lay litter of pure hay.

Here’s what they write about the size of queen cells on the forums:

“The mother-bird is a mandatory construction that must be placed in any rabbitry where a couple of animals live. Without it, the female will not be able to make a normal nest for her babies, and they will almost certainly die. The nest box should be made so that the mother with the offspring normally fits inside. Its length should be equal to 0.5 m, height – about 30 cm, and the entrance – not less than 15-20 cm in height, depending on the size of the female. To prevent the litter from falling out, the entrance is made at a height of 4-6 cm. ”

Recommendations for arranging rabbitry

There are a number of recommendations for arranging that will help make rabbitry is more convenient and comfortable for its inhabitants. But it is worth using these recommendations when designing the future dwelling for animals is being carried out. Remaking ready-made houses is not recommended, unless they are completely uncomfortable for rabbits. And you should start with one of the options for remaking the floor. A similar option is suitable for those breeds that do not tolerate lattice or mesh floors.

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In the front, the floor is solid, made of wood or even slate, and the back should be made of battens or mesh. The fact is that it is the back, dark part of the cage that the rabbits use as a toilet, therefore they will be comfortable and it will not be difficult for the farmer to clean up the room.

So that the remaining litter rolls down, you can make a solid part of the floor at a slight slope. But the slope should be really small, so that the animals can comfortably move around their home.

Ventilation and fight against rats

If the rabbitry is on the street, he usually no additional ventilation is required. Here, all harmful fumes are naturally removed from the room through a window in the front of the wall. But in order to prevent the concentration of harmful substances in the air from becoming too high, litter and other waste must be cleaned in a timely manner.

If rabbits are in a closed shed, additional ventilation will be needed here to help clean the room unpleasant odors.

Outdoor rabbitry usually does not require additional ventilation

Outdoor rabbitry usually does not require additional ventilation

In this case, it is necessary to install a separate fan in each rabbitry, and the general hood in the barn itself. But all this equipment should not be too strong so as not to cool the barn below the required norm. For rabbits, an air temperature of at least 16-17 ° C and an air humidity of 60-70% are needed. It is necessary to heat the entire room as a whole, and fire hazardous appliances can not be used in any case. Rabbits are made of wood, and the litter of rabbits releases hydrogen sulfide, and all this burns perfectly.

We should also talk about fighting rats. One thing can be said right away: nobody has yet managed to get rid of rats forever, but there are several ways to deal with them. Firstly, you can use Pied Piper cats (but they can not be fed in the house and allowed to live there). Secondly, there are slow-acting poisons that help a lot in the fight, but they must be used every fall and spring. Finally, fragments of glass and scraps of barbed wire embedded in the walls and foundation of the building make it difficult for rats to enter the barn.


Building a rabbitry is not as difficult as it seems to a beginner. But it must still be assembled correctly, in accordance with all the basic requirements. Be sure to make sure that there are no gaps in it, nails and splinters do not stick out from the inside, and the design itself is sufficiently robust. Only then it will be possible to launch its first inhabitants into such a room.

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Anna Evans

Author ✓ Farmer

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